Skincare

Operating principle for 2026: skin longevity, not anti-aging. Cellular barrier health, NAD+ metabolism, controlled cellular turnover, mitochondrial support — not chasing single hero ingredients. The cornerstone is consistency in a layered, well-sequenced routine; the cosmetic shelf is the supporting cast.

Routine pillars

Pillar	What it does	My pick(s)
Cleanse	Remove SPF / sebum / pollutants without stripping the barrier.	Shu Uemura Anti/Oxi+ (oil, sunscreen removal); Clinique All About Clean (water); Augustinus Bader Foaming Cleanser (gentle).
Hydrate	Restore the NMF + lock surface water.	The Ordinary NMF + HA; HA 2% + B5 + Ceramides; SK-II Facial Treatment Essence.
Active	Tretinoin (or AHA, on alternating nights) for turnover; Vit C AM; GHK-Cu PM.	Acretin 0.05% tretinoin; Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20%; Multi-Peptide + GHK-Cu 1%.
Protect	UV mitigation + barrier support.	Round Lab Birch Juice; La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 (high-protection days).

Products by category

Cleansers (face)

Product	Notes
Shu Uemura Anti/Oxi+ Cleansing Oil	Best for removing physical sunscreen.
Skin1004 Centella Light Cleansing Oil	Nice scent, barely greasy, no residue.
Dermalogica Precleanse Cleansing Oil	Slightly greasier than the Skin1004.
Clinique All About Clean Liquid Facial Soap	Foams quickly; efficient.
L'Oréal Men Expert Purifying Gel	2% SA + niacinamide — oily / acne-prone days.
Sisley Buff and Wash Facial Gel	Gritty, gentle exfoliation, smells nice. Max once per day.
Clarins Purifying Gentle Foaming Cleanser	Very gentle; good for double-cleanse days.
Augustinus Bader The Foaming Cleanser	Brightening, gentle, non-stripping but foamy.

Toners, mists, essences

Product	Notes
EM Cosmetics Divine Water Perfecting Mist	Hydration, makeup refresh, fine mist.
Jungsaemmool Essential Mool Micro Fitting Mist	Travel-friendly.
SK-II Facial Treatment Essence	Fermented-smelling but very brightening. Apply before AM Vit C or PM tret.
Mary & May Vegan Blackberry Complex Cream Essence	Extra hydration, shake to mix.
Cosrx Snail Radiance Dual Essence	Snail mucin + niacinamide. Patch test for dust allergies.

Actives, serums, targeted treatments

Category	Product	Notes
Retinoid	Acretin 0.05% (tretinoin)	PM only. Pea-sized for whole face. Photosensitiser → strict AM SPF. Pregnancy-contraindicated. No same-routine layering with AHAs, L-AA, GHK-Cu, or BPO.
Retinoid	Tazarotene	More effective than tretinoin, more irritating.
Vitamin C	The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20% in Vit F	Oil-soluble, neutral-pH Vit C derivative. Gentler than L-AA. Compatible with GHK-Cu, unlike L-AA.
Vitamin C	Kiehl's Powerful-Strength Vit C + HA	Results in 2–3 days; use with moisturizer only.
Vitamin C	Skinceuticals C E Ferulic	Considered the benchmark; patent expired, dupes exist. Refrigerate.
Vitamin C	Timeless 20% Vit C + E Ferulic	Cheaper Skinceuticals dupe; dries faster.
Peptide	The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + GHK-Cu 1%	Copper tripeptide + peptide complex. PM only; avoid low-pH actives in the same routine.
Peptide	The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA	Signal peptides (Matrixyl 3000 / synth'6) — collagen, wrinkle depth.
AHA	The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA	Gentle exfoliation, texture, tone.
AHA	The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA	Larger MW — lower irritation than glycolic.
AHA	The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toner	Smallest MW — deepest resurfacing exfoliant.
AHA	Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic	Stronger AHA. 2× per week. SPF if AM.
BHA	Paula's Choice 2% BHA Solution	Pores / blackheads.
Strong exfoliant	Biologique R Lotion P50 1970	Max 2× per week. Don't pair with tret (or patch test).
Targeted	Skinoren Azelaic Acid Cream	PM after tret. Can use AM after Vit C.
Hydration	Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Serum	Hyaluronic acid; fast absorption; locks moisture.
Hydration	The Ordinary NMF + HA	Amino acids / fatty acids / HA — mimics skin's natural NMF.
Hydration	The Ordinary NMF + Beta Glucan gel	Immunomodulatory / soothing β-glucan.
Hydration	The Ordinary HA 2% + B5 + Ceramides	HA + panthenol + ceramides — hydration & barrier.
Soothing	Skin1004 Probio-Cica Ampoule	Pairs nicely with snail essence.
Multi-use	Westman Atelier Skin Activator	"Lazy AM" option when skipping other steps.

Moisturisers, oils, eye care

Category	Product	Notes
Face cream	Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream (Squalane)	Favourite moisturiser.
Face cream	Tata Harper (range)	Whole line recommended.
Face cream	La Roche-Posay Effaclar H	Regular use.
Face cream	Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide	AM. Gel-cream, very light.
Face cream	Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair	PM. Thick / occlusive, feels light after absorbing.
Face cream	La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream	Reformulated lighter; still occlusive.
Face cream	Clarins Super Restorative Day	Pea-sized for whole face/neck — otherwise greasy.
Face cream	Clarins Super Restorative Night	Good "lazy moisturiser".
Face cream	Clarins Precious La Créme	Very thick, doesn't layer well — tiny amount only.
Oil / balm	Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate	Seals overnight.
Oil / balm	Monastery Made Attar Floral Balm	Serum sold as such; good as a light occlusive.
Oil / balm	Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask	Thin layer as moisturiser (ignore "mask" framing). Smells great.
Eye	NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour	No effect after two bottles. 1 drop both eyes, first step post-cleanse.
Eye	Sisley L'Intégral Anti-Âge Eye/Lip	Multifunction, sinks in fast.
Eye	Sisley Eye Contour Mask	Pin-sized at night over cream. Doesn't absorb fully — PM only.

Sunscreens

Use	Product	Notes
Face	Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing	Favourite chemical sunscreen; easy to apply.
Face	Scinic Sunscreen	Good under makeup or alone.
Face	Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV	Cheap; good under makeup; usable on body.
Face	Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick	Best for reapplication.
Face	Universkin Sunscreen Powder	Great finish; bulky for travel.
Face	EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum	No eye irritation.
Face	La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400	Heavier but very strong protection.
Body	La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mist Anti-Shine	Fast-fading scent.
Body	Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Spray SPF70	Go-to summer body.

Body & hair (light entries — full list on Body and Hair)

Product	Notes
The Ordinary Sulphate 4% Cleanser	Fragrance-free SLES — scalp & body.
NIVEA In-Shower Nourishing Lotion	Easy. Warning: drain buildup.
Palmer's Cocoa Butter Lotion	Best body results; also useful in hair.
NUXE Huile Prodigieuse Oil	Multi-use; polarising scent.

Actives reference (the 2026 cornerstone set)

Skin-side ingredients the doc identifies as load-bearing in 2026 — what they are, what they do, where they fit.

Cellular communicators

Active	Class	What it does
Exosomes	Extracellular vesicles, 30–150 nm	Carry TGF-β, IGF-1, mRNA, microRNAs; activate fibroblasts; clinical exosomes can lift collagen density ~300% over 6–8 weeks.
EXO|E	Plant-derived biomimetic exosomes	Ethical / clean alternative to human- or animal-derived.
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide, salmon)	DNA-fragment precursor	Tissue repair via adenosine A2A receptor; topical + injectable.

Cellular turnover

Active	Class	What it does
Retinaldehyde (retinal)	Retinoid	One metabolic step to retinoic acid — faster than retinol, gentler than tretinoin. The doc's 2026 topical cornerstone.
Tretinoin (Acretin)	Prescription retinoid	All-trans retinoic acid — active form, no enzymatic conversion needed. Stronger than retinal, more irritating. My current pick.

Structural / signalling peptides

Active	Class	What it does
GHK-Cu (copper tripeptide-1)	Biomimetic tripeptide	Collagen, angiogenesis, wound healing. PM only. Do not co-apply with low-pH actives.
Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide)	Signal peptide	Collagen induction, wrinkle depth.

Antioxidants

Active	Class	What it does
L-ascorbic acid (Vit C)	Acidic antioxidant	Collagen synthesis + pigmentation. AM only. Incompatible with GHK-Cu.
Ethyl ascorbic acid	Stable Vit C derivative	Gentler, more stable.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate	Oil-soluble, neutral-pH Vit C	Compatible with GHK-Cu — what I currently use.

Hydration & barrier

Active	Class	What it does
High-MW HA (1,000–1,800 kDa)	Surface humectant	Film-forming, blocks TEWL.
Low-MW HA (<300 kDa)	Deep humectant	Penetrates to dermal reservoir.
Ceramides	Barrier lipids	Restore stratum corneum lipid matrix. 2026 standard in all formulations.

Layering & rotation protocol

Hard incompatibilities

Combo	Why it fails	Fix
GHK-Cu + low-pH (any AHA, L-AA, BPO)	Copper peptide degrades in acidic environments — partially inert.	Use Vit C / AHAs AM, GHK-Cu PM only. Or use Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (neutral pH) which is compatible with GHK-Cu.
Tretinoin + irritants (AHAs, L-AA, GHK-Cu, BPO)	Compound irritation + the GHK-Cu pH issue above.	Tret nights stand alone. SPF the next morning is non-negotiable.

Rotation (PM)

Night	Active	Notes
1	Tretinoin	Pea-sized. Wait 20 min after cleanse + moisturise.
2	GHK-Cu	Apply first; 10–20 min absorption window before anything else.
3	Tretinoin
4	GHK-Cu
...	Repeat	Skip a night if irritation builds.

AM AHAs only on non-tretinoin mornings while tolerance is being built; once stable, AM AHAs are fine daily (with SPF).

Gaps & open items

• No exosomes / PDRN topicals yet — VT PDRN R5 Firming Ampoule, COSRX PDRN Exosome Mask, EXO|E. The regenerative-communicator layer is the largest single gap.
• HA is single-MW only — current HA 2% + B5 + Ceramides isn't the layered high/low-MW formulation the doc specifies.
• No LED mask — see Interventions. CurrentBody Skin LED Mask (Series 2) is the doc's flagship at-home device.
• No clinical regenerative work — polynucleotides, Profhilo, clinical exosomes. See Interventions.